How to download a complete website, including links between pages.

Quite often, you may download sections of a website, only to find downloading separate pages does not maintain the links between them.

There is an easy way to grab whole sections of a site (or even a whole site), such that you can run it locally offline with all the links between pages intact, and you can even upload the whole captured sections to your own website and the relative links will still work!

Copy and paste the index page or a sub page into httrack

It works on Windows 2000 to Win10, and Linux. You can use the portable version which will run from a USB stick, or you can use the installer version.

And it’s FREE.

You can capture (mirror) several websites complete with their data, and they may be accessed from a master web-page; as in the example below.

The REALLY cool bit is that downloadable files such as PDFs and jpg files are saved too. If it’s in a directory and referenced by a regular page link, it will be downloaded.

Error reporting is also good. Use this on your own website to show up a list of any broken links – and other errors.

Let me know if you learn any neat tricks with this software…..

Richard Langner

 

 

 

 

 

 

Arduino Day 2017

Its that time of year once again! Arduino Day 2017!!

On April 1st (no joke!), for the third year running, we will be hosting an Arduino Day event at the hackspace.

The event itself will begin at 10am and will include several talks from current members on Arduino basics, a show and tell of projects that have been made using Arduino and, of course, the workshop will be open for anyone to try their hand at building something, with lots of members on hand to help out.

For non-members the event will be free to attend so if you think you know anyone that would be interested in learning about this invaluable digital making tool, or would just like to learn something new please share this post with them.

The presentations / talks given on the day will be:-

10:30:- What is an Arduino
11:00:- The Arduino IDE
11:30:- Writing an Arduino Program (Sketch)
12:30:- Installing Libraries and Boards
13:00:- Data protocols (intermediate talk)

As well as this we will have members on hand to answer any questions or help out with your projects up until 16:00

Making a kit knife

Since moving into the Portland Works in January 2015 I have had a desire to learn more about knife making. Obviously there is a long tradition of knife making in Sheffield generally, and more specifically at the Portland Works (http://www.sheffieldhardwarehackers.org.uk/wordpress/2015/01/585/) so it felt fitting to start exploring this new interest at the hackspace.

Fast forward 18 months and I’d still not made any progress but a few minutes spent in our neighbors workshop (http://stuartmitchellknives.com/) during one of the Portland Works open days inspired me further and I went home that day and ordered a piece of tool steel with the firm intention of getting moving. However life got in the way yet again and a temporary pause was once again placed on my project.

When I did finally think I had some quality time to spend on knife making I pulled out the piece of steel I had brought and looked at it. Something was nagging at me. Some advice I had been given was “Start small”. Great advice for any new endeavor of course, but more specifically I’d been advised to make a knife from a kit instead of a piece of steel. The reason being is that finishing a knife off, attaching and shaping the handles essentially, is quite a challenge in itself so the first time you do it it probably isn’t the best idea to attach them to a piece of steel you have spent hours working on and then mess it up!! Much better to learn your lessons on a blade you haven’t got so much time invested in.

I’m going to say right now that this is Part 1 of a 2 part blog, this detailing how to assemble the handle on a kit knife, the second part will be how to make the knife blade itself. Right. There, I’ve said it so I have committed to part 2 now. Anyway… On with the build.

The knife kit itself is pretty simple. You get a blade, two pieces of material for the handle (in my case olive wood), a couple of liners to go between the blade and the handle material (optional but can add strength and a nice visual contrast), two bolts for securing the handle to the blade and a metal tube for passing a lanyard through.

Once you have assembled all the parts you need for the build it’s time to get making! The first step is to drill the fixing holes for the bolts and the lanyard tube through the scales (handle material) and the liners (if using). These holes need to line up perfectly, and be at exactly 90 degrees, so I clamped the handle of the blade to both my wooden scale and the liner and then used the drill press to go through the existing hole in the blade handle (after measuring it of course). Once complete I attached the bolt through the hole I had just made to make sure that it couldn’t slip out of alignment as I drilled the next two holes, one for the second bolt and the other for the thong tube.

Before removing the bolts and clamps I marked the liner material around the edge of the blade, so I could cut it out on the bandsaw, making sure I also noted which side of the blade it belonged to. I then removed the bolts and clamp, removed the liner, then placed the bolts through the handle scale and blade again so I could mark up the wood for cutting. Once complete for one side I flipped the knife over and repeated the drilling / marking process again.

The next job was to roughly cut the handle shapes out. As I previously mentioned I used the bandsaw at the hackspace to do this but this could easily be done with any handsaw, or even files and wood rasps.

There are a number of different bolts / pins / fasteners that you can get to secure the scales onto the knife handle so this next step my not be necessary but I had to countersink the heads of my bolts into the handle so I used a larger drill bit (sized to the bolt head) to drill about halfway into the wood giving me a stepped hole. I actually hacked together a step drill bit to do this to give me a nice flat shelf at the base of the hole but just countersinking would work just fine.

At this stage the handle scales are almost ready to attach to the knife blade, however it will make life much easier to precisely finish the blade end of the scales first. Once attached to the knife it would be very difficult to get abrasives to the end of the scales without ruining the finish of the knife so this is best done now. To make sure the ends were symmetrical I attached them together using the bolts I had used earlier, and that will be used to eventually permanently attached the handle to the blade.  I used the belt sander in the hackspace to do the shaping, but again rasps, files and sandpaper would work fine.

Now its finally time to attach the scales to the knife. In addition to the bolts that connect the two halves of the scales a two-part epoxy is used to glue all the parts together. Due to the rather short working time of the epoxy, typically around five minutes, it is definitely best to dry fit all of the parts together to check for a good fit. Once you are happy everything will fit wrap the sharp part of the blade with masking tape, and then mix up the epoxy and attach the all parts together, ensuring that everything, including the bolts, gets a good coating of epoxy and then apply clamps (trying not to let the epoxy squeeze out get on the clamps or you’ll glue them to the knife as well!!). As I mentioned earlier the working time of the epoxy is approximately five minutes, but its advisable to leave the clamps on for at least 24 hours to ensure the epoxy is fully cured.

Once the epoxy is fully cured the clamps can be removed and the shaping of the handle can being. The first job is cut the bolts flush to the wood. You have to take care while doing this not to overheat the bolts as it can affect the strength of the epoxy, so I chose to cut these off with a hacksaw instead of grinding them off on the belt sander.

From there I used a wood rasp to remove the bulk of the material until I got close to the profile of the blade, then switched to files to get the wood closely profiled to the metal.

I then switched to the belt sander again to remove some of the width from the handle, rocking the blade left and right slightly to give it a curved profile for a nice feel in the hand. It is important to do this shaping over the metal platen on the belt sander as this will ensure that the metal bolts are ground away at the same rate as the soft wood on the handle.

To finish the handle I used small strips of sandpaper, starting at around 120 grit and then moving up to 400 grit, and pulled them around the handle until I had a nice smooth finish, paying close attention to the bolts making sure they were nicely polished.

The final step is then to add a finish to the handle, I chose boiled linseed oil which I applied with a cloth in several coats, rubbing off the excess between coats. The kit I purchased also included a leather sheath that I need to put together so I will include that in a blog post soon.

Make a hedgehog house for your garden

We’re getting toward hedgehogs’ hibernation season, so Sarah built a hedgehog house for her garden, and wrote up her process for others to follow. It’s a fun weekend project; if you make one, we’d love to hear about it. Of course, we have all the tools you need in the hackspace, for all members to use. Call in to one of our open sessions to take a look.


Use a hand saw to cut a 6” diameter pipe to min 30cm.  (Electric saws will melt, not cut the plastic.)  File the edge smooth.  This is the entrance tunnel that will prevent foxes/badgers etc fishing the hedgehogs out of the house.

Sarah's Hedgehog house 1

Balance a 30L storage box on the end of the pipe and draw around the end of the pipe with a marker pen.

Sarah's Hedgehog house 3Sarah's Hedgehog house 2

 

 

 

 

Use a dremel or similar on a slow setting  to cut out inside of the pen line.

Sarah's Hedgehog house 4

File smooth the inside and outside of the cut edge.   Use the marker pen to measure out 3cm points along both long sides, under the overhang.

Sarah's Hedgehog house 5

Drill ventilation holes through each pen mark on both sides.

Sarah's Hedgehog house 6Sarah's Hedgehog house 7

 

 

 

 

 

Unscrew the nut and remove the washers from the 90 bend pipe.  Place against the short end of the box, near the top edge and draw around the inside of the washer. Use a hole bit to drill out the same size hole as the pipe.  Put the washer on the pipe and nut.  Fasten the pipe to the box.

Sarah's Hedgehog house 8Sarah's Hedgehog house 9

 

 

 

 

 

Drill 6 drainage holes in the bottom of the box

Sarah's Hedgehog house 10

Push the large pipe into the big hole in the box.  Put the lid on.

Sarah's Hedgehog house 11

Locate the box in a quiet area of the garden, with the pipe pointing away from prevailing winds / the north / east.  Cover with leaves, but do not fill with anything.  Apparently, hedgehogs prefer to find their own bedding.  Make sure there are holes in your & your neighbours’ garden fence/hedge/wall/gate so they can get into your garden.  They will roam 1-2 kilometres a night looking for food so access is important.

One the box is installed, do not disturb.  Clean annually in early Oct with cleaner used for bird cages.

Sarah's Hedgehog house 12

Using the Boards Manager of the Adruino IDE

By Richard M Langner

In order to program an Arduino device (a board or a stand-alone chip), it needs to be listed in the Arduino IDE. If it isn’t listed, this article should help you list it using the Boards Manager. The basic procedure is –

  1. Locate the Boards Manager URL for your device (search the web).
  2. Add it to the ‘Additional Boards Manager URLs’ list (under File → Preferences).
  3. Install the device in the ‘Boards Manager’ (under Tools).

I am using the Arduino IDE v1.6.7 and the device I want to list is the ATtiny85 stand-alone 8 pin chip. Boards/devices are listed in alphabetical order and you can see below that no ATtinys are listed.
(Click to enlarge the images)

not-on-the-board-list

First, we need to find a board manager for our device. A search for ‘ATtiny85 board manager’ brings up a couple of candidates.

search-results

Click on the top result and copy the ‘Boards Manager URL’ to the clipboard.

copy-json-link

This URL needs to be added to the ‘Additional Boards Manager URLs’ which you will find under File → Preferences.

file-preferences

In Preferences, click on the button to see a list of board managers that are already installed.

preferences

In my case there are only two managers installed

already-installed-managers

Paste the URL (you previously copied) into the list on a new line and click OK. Then close these boxes and return to the IDE main screen.

paste-the-url

You have just told the boards manager where to look for the information.

Now you can begin to install the manager for the ATtiny85.  Find your way to the Boards Manager –

board-manager-1

and type ‘ATtiny’ into the search-box. You should get something like this –

board-manager-2

Click on the appropriate manager item and an Install button appears.

board-manager-3

Click on the Install button and after a moment you will see confirmation the manager has been installed.

board-manager-4

The ATtiny devices will now show up in the list of boards/devices.

board-list

Finally, select the ATtiny85 device and ensure that all the other settings are correct.

chip-settings

You are now ready to program the ATtiny85.

The same procedure may be used to install other boards/devices into the Arduino IDE.

Note: Your screens and menu options may be slightly different to mine, but the general method of listing your device should be the same.

Programming the ATtiny85 using an Arduino UNO

By Richard M Langner

This article describes how you can use an Arduino UNO to program a bare ATtiny85 micro-controller chip. I will show you how to program the ATtiny85 with the ‘Blink’ sketch. These are the steps –

  1. Connect the UNO to the ATtiny breadboard and connect the 10uF capacitor
  2. Configure the Arduino as an In-circuit Serial Programmer (ISP)
  3. Insert the ATtiny85 into the breadboard
  4. Configure the IDE for the ATtiny85
  5. Modify and upload the ‘blink’ sketch to the ATtiny85

1. Connect the UNO to the ATtiny85 breadboard and connect the 10uF capacitor
Connect the UNO to the breadboard as shown below. If you intended to keep the breadboard and UNO solely for programming, I recommend using an 8 pin socket for the ATtiny85 – this will ensure you insert the chip in the correct place each time on the breadboard.
Don’t insert the ATtiny85 in the socket yet – you must first configure the UNO to act as a programmer.

Pin connections:

  • ATtiny Pin 2 to Arduino Pin 13
  • ATtiny Pin 1 to Arduino Pin 12
  • ATtiny Pin 0 to Arduino Pin 11
  • ATtiny Reset Pin to Arduino Pin 10
  • ATtiny Pin 2 to 150Ω resistor, resistor to LED anode, LED cathode to GND (not shown here).
  • 10uF capacitor connects between GND (-) and RESET (+)

(Click on the images to get a clearer image.)

Uno as an ISP

2. Configure the Arduino as an In-circuit Serial Programmer (ISP)

Select the Arduino UNO board
setup-isp-1

and open the ISP sketch.
isp

Next you should upload the ISP example to the UNO board. Ensure you have selected the correct COM port.
download-blink

Congratulations! Your UNO is configured as a programmer.

You’re now ready to program the ATtiny85 with the ‘Blink’ sketch. You will need to connect an LED to display the blink. Connect a 150 Ohm resistor to the physical pin2 on the chip. The other end of the resistor should connect to the LED anode (its long leg), and the LED cathode connects to GND.

3. Insert the ATtiny85 into the breadboard

Remove the power by unplugging the USB cable. Taking care, insert the ATtiny chip into the breadboard socket the correct way around. Re-connect the USB cable.

4. Configure the IDE for the ATtiny85

Configure the IDE as follows –

  • Board  =  ATtiny85
  • Processor  =  ATtiny85
  • Clock speed  =  8MHz

2016-10-01_00037 2016-10-01_00038

Set the programmer ‘Arduino as ISP’
2016-10-01_00039

If the ATtiny85 is new, it will require the fuses to be set.  Among other things, fuses set the CPU speed. The fuses only need to be set once for each chip. To do this, select the ‘Burn bootloader’ option.

2016-10-01_00040

5. Modify and upload the ‘blink’ sketch to the ATtiny85

Open the example sketch ‘Blink’ and change the LED’s digital pin number to 3 on all the sketch lines (this is because the ATtiny85 does not have a pin13. Note that physical pin2 on the chip is digital pin3 on the ATtiny85). The code should look like this –

// the setup function runs once when you press reset or power the board
void setup() {
  // initialize digital pin 3 as an output.
  pinMode(3, OUTPUT);
}

// the loop function runs over and over again forever
void loop() {
  digitalWrite(3, HIGH);   // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
  delay(1000);              // wait for a second
  digitalWrite(3, LOW);    // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW
  delay(1000);              // wait for a second
}

Finally upload the ‘Blink’ sketch to the ATtiny85.
download-blink

That’s it! The blink program should now flash the LED.

The UNO is now set up as a programmer and so further ATtiny85 chips may be programmed by simply plugging them into the breadboard and uploading your code to them.

Richard Langner
With thanks to OJ for his help in defining the procedure.
This is my first post here, so please let me know if there is anything missing or incorrect.

Electromagnetic Field 2016

A great weekend was had by all as multiple members of SHH&M went down to Loseley Park for EMF2016. Our entrepid woodworker, AJ, went ahead of the rest of us to build the sink frames, back of the bar and multiple other items ahead of over 1400 people decending for a weekend of camping. However, as should be expected from a group of hackers and makers camping, electricity and high speed internet were essential amenities. We had our own Village, complete with flag, and took along some Go-Boxes and Bugs’s pancake engraver to show off (blog to follow!).

Events over the weekend included numerous talks from lockpicking to film special effects and latest updates from CERN to magic tricks and illusions. There was also the opportunity to make a wide range of things such as a titanium spork, a patchwork pin cushion and a pin hole camera. Evening events included film showings, the infamous Robot Arms with NottyHacks Barbot, a light maze and FirePong – yep, ping pong with fire! There was also a giant blow up rabbit which you could change the colour of by tweeting a colour!

All the talks are available to watch on You Tube if you feel want to catch-up with anything.

A one day event is planned for next year, with the next EMF camp due in 2018. If this year is anything to go by, both should be highly recommended!

 

Blue Bunny

Blue Bunny

White Bunny

White Bunny

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Red Lightfield

Blue Lightfield

Blue Lightfield

Bookcase with clock stand

One of my own projects this time: a bookcase with an upright to hold a favourite clock. I didn’t want to drive nails into my (rented, plasterboard) walls and can always use extra shelf space, so I came up with this as a woodworking project. I’m a complete beginner at woodworking, so I learned a lot making this and had a lot of help from other hackspace members. It’s not perfect, but it does its job and I still have all my fingers so I’m calling it a success. At least, until I start work on version 2…

Want to learn some woodwork, or any of the other crafts and skills that our members get up to? Come along to your local hackspace!

A few recent snapshots

A few of the things we’ve been up to in the hackspace over the past week or two: Sewable arduinos (floras) and crochet, woodworking on the new lathe, silverwork on the jewellery bench, soldering up some electronics projects, painting the walls for our cellar expansion while planning the next builds, and lots of coding, writing and chatter.

Want to meet a friendly group of makers, whether to work on your own projects or as a beginner to learn new skills? Call in to one of our open sessions to see the workshop, say hi, and learn about how the group works.